Do as the locals, Alhama Granada 56k 3hours

Liz and I decide that today after our majical ride up and down the foot hills, past the most amazing lake, through orchards of olive trees; a bike ride to the local Hot baths would be great for our legs. I am told that Alhama, the town were we are staying, means hot baths in Moslen.

As we wind through the gorge, I begin to feel a instant rush of hot air. As i look to my right, i can see and hear the orgin of the heat. Pooring out of the rock, hot water finds its was down that creek that will supply the hot baths for our muscle aches. Hesistant at first, due to the amount of locals in the pools, people bathing with soap, children screaming,teenagers smoking hash, and just the sheer attention 2 white girls are getting from the crowd. I wonder if we are welcome. As we enter the pools we are greated with smiles. Liz and I are welcome.

After a long soak and great conversation, we head back to the town in hopes to find a good night in the village. Similar to Itallian culture, the spanish live very late in the night. They typically do not even start dinner till 10pm. The beauty of this is that Tapas, the small plates of feed, are served from 4pm-late in the night. Even better, in south spain they are free witha drink. The most wonderful mini-food is unique at every pub. That in its self is a unique sight for the eyes. Hams hang from the cealing, waxed circles of aged chees are kept on the shelf with the glasses, tapas are displayed behind class. I have found my favorite tapas bar in Alhama and the owners really like Liz and I. Ahhhhh Tapas....... I must mention that each place usually has a speciality. Generally, they consist of little roasted potatoes, with or with out a sauce; skewered shell fish, ham, chicken, and vegetables;vegetables or fish fried, bread topped with tomotoes, cheese, ham, olive spread, fish, egss, and always soaked with the best olive oil. A night on the town consists of hopping from tapas bar to tapas bar. With water and soda priced higher than alcohol, rojo vino or a lemon beer "shanty" is the drink of choice at 1.50 euro for this girl that is on a budget. The only problem is that you continue to eat and dring through out the night and with out warning you are becomming a little too happy to be at the Tapas Bar till the weeeeee.... hours in the morning. The problem can be compounded with the fact that you have a 106 k bike ride planned up one of the hardest climbs in Spain, or Western Europe if this sounds any worse.

My Twin, Andusila, Spain 96k 3:46

I have been enjoying my time on the bike, but truthfuly, I am looking forward to company. I am to meet my cycling tour today. My tour leaders take me to a little village called Alhama Granada. It is a wonderful area with amazing views of the Sierra Nevadas....Where I will spend many hours climbing toward the clouds. A far southern region of Spain, the Andulusian region has a strong influence of the Muslim culture that has left a imprint on the culture.

I am pleased to be housed in a beautiful bread and breakfast with a wonderful Spanish family. I have the most beautiful views of the pristine gorge.Paco and Loyla are absolutly wonderful. Paco is a character. He is a famouns flamengo singer and frequently breaks out into song when he is inspired. He likes to pinch my cheeks and even with a major language barrier, he always knows what i want to eat. He is paired with Lolya, a stong women that is running for mayor of the town. Me casa su casa is is the theme

I soon become dissapointed when I came to find that there is no group....only one other woman from scottland. I decide to keep the theme of "going with the flow" and keep an open mind about how things always seem to work out for me.

By the end of a wonderful ride through the country side, i have quickly realized that my scottish companion will be part of my life for a long time.

It is very rare to meet someone you click with instantly. I call Liz my Twin. Maybe it is this way becuase she cycles all over the world, she is scottish and I feel some connection with my heritage being with her, maybe because we have lived parallel lifes with work and love, or maybe because we share the same dreams about how we want to live our lifes. All I know is that I am so happy to be on this tour with her. I told her meeting her she was worth every penny that I spent on the tour. I am glad there is no group and reflect on how God opens doors for those who are ready.

I get to see the Sun Rise Venice, Italy

I stand on the tain platform, in my PJ´s, bike bag half packed, most of my clothes are crammed in a plastic bag, or tucked beneith my arms. It is DARK, 5:30 am, and I have just arrived in Venice on a night train. I am lucky my 2 non-english speaking bunk mates were able to help me gather my things in a hurry before the train left the station with me on it. It seems, I misunderstood when the train was to arrive. I thought 9:30 am....not 5:30 am. I instantly thought.. Well now I get to see the sunrise.

Venice is what you would imagine it to be. Water ways replace pavement, motor boats replace cars, ancient buildings are scaled with stone chizzled men and beasts, lovers stroll holding hands, beggers beg, and merchents pester. A city on the water dissapearing into the sea.

I took the water bus for a tour of the city. For a hour, I continue to be amazed by what I see. For a moment, I was even saddened that there was not more pavement. You see the goal of most road cyclists, is to find nice pavement that we can go for a ride on; exploring the world. I wish I could cover the city by bike, winding through the tiny streets, over bridges, and pass beautiful court yards. It woul take me days on foot to cover what i could do on a bicycle.

My Aussie friends asked if I like pigeons. What can one say..."well there are ok, kinda dirty, and scary when the take flight and slam into your body, but besides this, like I said they are ok. They giggled and then asked if they would buy some feed, would I feed the pigeons. "Sure why not", I replied, and they giggled.I arrived at Saint Peter's square and there were thousands of Pigeons being fed by tourists. I must say I only lasted a few minutes with this adventure... then went to wash my hands.

Isile of Capri, Italy 28k 2.5 hrs

I sit eating the freshest salad with 5 kinds of greens, fresh cubed cheese, the ripest cherry tomotoes, grilled chicken, drizzled in balsamic dressing.My afternnon lunch ispaired with the best bread and freshly squeezed iced lemon juice that I must sweeten to drink. I must also mention that I sit at a little table, sunning in my bathing suit. I look to my left and I see the bluest water that crashes against the rock leveled beach that is visited by only a handfull of other individuals tring to get away from the tourist section of the island. THere is the most beautifyl lighthouse that scales hundres of feettall. As many places in ITaly that I have traveled in the past, the color of every flower temps me to dismount my bicycle and snap a picture in hopes to preserve the beauty that brings me happiness. Emperor TIberius had himeslf a garden of eden of the sea.

I think to my self I am very happy that I brought my bicycle, becuase If I did not I would of never found this beach that is generally tucked hidden away but only populated with locals and a few tourists that are brave enough to rent a car for the island.

I got off the fairy this morning and decided to again scale the sea side mountain cliffs that are lined with little steep roads. I find that only portions of the island are accessable by car or bike. This is the Anacapri, the eastern side of the island. I ride to 3 corners of the island that each take me down 4-5k to the sea ending roads... then back up again to the mountain top villages.

My day in Capri ends too quickly, and I must head to Napoli to catch my train that will take me to Venezia... the italian town that we all have dreamed about were you are kissed as you pass under bridges that can get you over the streets of water. WEll... I htink most women have thought about this at one point or another.

AMore Katelyn

The coast line ride, Posetono to Pompei, Almaphie Cost Italy 3.5 hrrs 45k

The traffic will be slower today. Just to be extra cautious, I choose a route along the almaphie costline that will be less congested with traffic. I find myself winding up the usual switch backs that are 10-13 percent grade. I would rather not know this but I am wanned with big yellow signs. I have just realized that due to all my mountain descending, I will need new break pads before I go to the Sierra Nevadas in Spain (yes they are in the us too) with one of the highest mountain climb in WEstern Europe.

Lemon groves are terraced in the mountain hill side. Slight haze hides the clarity of the blue horizon. Dozens of cyclists are out toady, I pass a few pro teams. It is funny to see them react as I crews right by them on a climb or match their descent.I must mention that in the weeks I have been here, I have see hundreds of cyclists and not one has been female. I do not know why and I hope not to sterotype. But I have been told by itallian and spanish men, that women is spain or italy do not do this...ride the bike. They go shopping and wear the fancy clothes... and do the hair.. and go to the beach.. and go to the club.... and laa lala....and they always say this mocking a women walking, making little funny faces, and waving their hands making little noices. Yes they make more sound effects,faces, voices, and wave their hands more than I do. Generally they do not understand why I would come all the way fromUS to cycle. They wold rather come to the US. I guess human beings tend to not be happy where they are and always want more. Realizing this, it has made me ashamed that I am learning more about a foreign culture than what I know about my very own heritage and country. THis will cahnge when I get back.

I reach Pompei, the ancient ramins that have perfectly preserved a horror of a village that so long ago losts its existance due to ash and lava. To view these wonders, it will only cost me 20 euros or so... I decide that the outside ruins, viewed behind the fences from the street will be just fine for me. Besides I caught the discovery channel special on this a few months ago.

I return to Posetono by train and head to the beach for another end to a perfet itallian day.

OH YA.. I have been enjoying all bikes in Europe

The Italian Vacation Destination, Positano, Alamphie cost

If you ask an Italian where they would go on vacation, they say the almaphie cost. Positano, a little village on the sea, if more beuatiful than what I have already seen. It is different, so I cannot say that it is more beuatiful than tuscany or any other part, but it is beautiful. I will have another weekend with my two favorite things-the sea-the mountains.
TOday I am tired. It is Saturday and the roads along the coast are busy with winding cliff roads that are packed with itallian motorcycles, tour buses, and mini cars. I have never seen more dangerous roads. Switchbacks, 90 degree turns, buses and trucks blast their horns before entering each turn, and blind corners that are only wide enough for one bus. I can imagine the view I will miss today, but there is tomorrow, with less traffic. I am not in the mood for motorcycles speeding,horns blaring, and itallians hanging out the car windows saying god know what. I need a relaxing say at the beach.

I lay on the smoothed rock beach with speckles of emerald green, amber, and electric blue glass that has been softened with time. Rugged layered clifs are lined with sugar cube houses that over look the sea. A mix of italians and tourists relax on the beach. Naked children throw the black beach, lovers embrace, and hand fulls of packed itallian men try to get the attention of this tennesse girl that does not want to be bothered.

I decide to go on a boat ride, The itallians call this the rubber boat. It it the perfect palce to see the cliff lined naked beaches with the bluest water, hidden caves, and just beautiful.

AS I return to my home for the day, I pass a local man that makes sandels. HUndreds of styles, colors, shapes that I can choose from. THey make a pair to fit my little fat feet perfrect.
RElaxed, shoe happy, a little burnt, and maybe a little too tipsy, I end the day reflecting on how happy this gal can get.

Amore, Katelyn

Rome in a day, But first a last Tuscun Ride 30 km 1.5 hrs

I have to leave my tuscany today. One more ride this morning, just one more. I feel at home at the Bassetto. In my mind I have already lived here. Know what it would be like to wake up in the morning, go for a ride, then off to the market to buy fresh food for the day, take a nap on the hammok, and then join the family for a large late meal... and hopefully learn Itallian. I guess I have have been day dreaming a little, wich can be very dangerous on a bike ride to be in la-la land for major portions of the journey. An offer by the oweners have sparked this idea in my head. My own room in this gorgeous place, free wireless, cash for taking guest on bicycle tours, and all I have to do is clean the kitchen, change the sheets, and ride my bike. Yes the perfect quiet place to write a dissertation.It is very tempting, but giving up the chance for a perfect job in the states would be crazy... I guess I will see if they offer me the position, if not I will be back to my Tuscany.

So yes, Rome in a day. Most people think I am crazy. Especially the Itallians.
they say... YOU AMERICAN ALWAYS RUSH AND WANT TO SEE TOO MUCH. I am not rushing, actaully I have been the oppisit, truthfully all I would want to see in Rome, I can do in a day. I rather be on my bike in the country side.

I awake early in Rome with hopes to beat the crowds. The plan takes me to the colosseo, you know where the gladiators use to play. As I emerge from the underground metro, I am taken back by the enormous size of the crumbling structure. Ancient bricks were diligently laid to form the house of games for ancient roman spectators. Cobbled streets circle and as I walk I can begin to imagine the sounds of the crowds chanting and cheering the gladiators to victory.

As I begin to wander down the street throught the roman gardens I pass by dozens of caged remains of ancient buildings that now house pigeons and cats.

I find the ancient ruins of history class.. and what can I possible say to describe them. I am in Saint Peters square. I stand before the alpha of christianity.I am overwhelmed with the crowds, traffic, the noise, and cameras.

I have had enough and can see more and moreI am not a city girl afterall. I miss my Tuscany. So I did see Rome in a day and it ended with the best gelato ever.

Amore, Katelyn