Steps toward the sky, Montserrat, Spain.

I am eating chocolate and cherries, drinking a glass of Tinto Vino and a café con leche over candlelight; sitting in a climbing refuge that is nestled in the trees amongst the rocks of Montserrat. To reach this haven, we climbed over 1,000 vertical steps that reached toward the clouds.

I am told that Santa Benet was first a church that was constructed in the early 1900’s, and now serves as a shelter for climbers that come from all over the world to scale the conglomerate rock walls. The priests of the Monastery manage all of the refuges that are scattered on the mountain. Each refuge is unique and may only be a overhanging rock with twigs fastened to form a wind block or a shelter carved in the rock with a propane stove, candles for light, and left over sleeping pads that lay on the rock and dirt floors. Santa Benet has some luxuries of home; relatively thick mattresses are laid out on the floor that was once where the congregation worshiped, a back room has a kitchen with no running water, only natural or candle light, table and chairs. A little stereo plays FM radio, climbing books and maps line the bookshelf, and a old ham leg hangs from the rafters. I ask the volunteer that works during the weekends, collecting the four-euro fee to use the facility, about the ham. He laughs and says the ham is no good, but it is decoration…. typical Spanish decorations.

Today, I followed Ruben for about 4 hours as we climbed and hiked up and down the peaks of Montserrat. Well… I crawled on all fours half of the time as we were not doing “dangerous climbing” that required gear. Ruben had no problem and I think maybe part mountain goat due to the gracefulness he maneuvered with ease. If any of you know me, you know that I am a cluts when it comes to walking, but put be on a bicycle and I can balance and ride most things people cold not walk on. So yes…dangerous for me; especially in my puma tennis shoes that are not really meant for hiking and climbing, but was the best Ruben and I could find at the “similar to Walmart” shopping center the day before. Like most of my things, my hiking shoes are in the locker…. in Madrid.

We left in the morning. My pack was loaded with the light items as my guide, being the gentlemen he is, carried most of the weight. We are spending a couple of days exploring the National Forest of Montserrat. Lush Spanish forest hug stunning rock formations that have names such as elephant rock (on the left) and momma and baby mummy (the two peaks to the right)

This is also the center of Catholicism for the region of Catalonia Spain. Tourist Busses scale the winding roads brining thousands of people each year to see the village and the “school for the singing children”, as Ruben puts it simply. According to history that I found on the internet, the Black Virgin of Montserrat was carved by St. Luke around 50 AD and was and brought to Spain. It was later hidden from the Moors in a cave (Santa Cova, the Holy Grotto), where it was rediscovered in 880 AD.By the 9th century, there were four chapels on Montserrat, of which only one remains - St. Aciscolo's, which is in the monastery's garden. In the 11th century, the abbot-bishop Oliba founded a monastery on the mountain of Montserrat, next to one of the chapels. Many miracles were reported through the intercession of the Virgin Mary at Montserrat. According to the legend of the discovery, which was first recorded in the 13th century, the statue was discovered by shepherds. They saw a bright light and heard heavenly music that eventually led them to the grotto and the statue. Due to the great numbers of pilgrims that flocked to Montserrat throughout the Middle Ages, the monastery was enlarged from its original humble size. In 1592, the grand basilica of Montserrat was consecrated. Today the Monastery of Montserrat, located near the top of the 4,000-foot mountain, is home to about 80 monks. The monks welcome visitors and invite them to participate in their daily celebrations of Mass and recitations of the Liturgy of the Hour.

am not sure if it is becuase what is housed in these building, the tale of a wooden statue, or visions of Marry; what ever it is...this land is spiritual and I have only felt this one other time in my life. This was in North Carolina, on top of Max Patch were rainbow Indians were honoring the summer solstice. Silent, still, fasting for days; these men covered in tarps looking to the east had pine limbs stuck in the ground circling their body. Torn colored fabric was tied to each limb and waved in the wind. The backdrop of the bald mountain that was covered with wild strawberries and black berries is a 360 degree view of pristine Appalachian forest. Max patch was my favorite place…. I think Montseratt is tied for first place.

Amore,
Katelyn